Looking at the menswear collections going on at this moment is a lesson in class vs. crass. the lines are blurred on both sides of the question, but the collection that seems to be catching every ones eye (jaundiced, I fear) is the one by John Galliano. I find him to be one of the most thought provoking and unbridled provocateurs showing.
This collection is something of a celebration of the reshaping and restructuring of the language of menswear as we once knew it. A little like Dior's revolution that took place 65 yrs ago, only this time, the argument for change against the strictures and structure of fashion of the past has a strong argument against his proposed new language.
Ok , presentation is everything. We all know that. In this case, the presentation eclipsed what might have been valid alternatives to what has come before, as recent as what we wore that day to the collection. The models were styled beyond recognition of their sex. Teased ,dyed hair and enough make up to sink a bateau mouche is not a crime or a sin, but the fact that they have taken on a femininity in their total aspect has blurred the lines to an indecipherable point. The limbs, legs, shapes and angles of their faces are so androgynous , you have to look for other tell tale signs to figure out what are you watching. A bare chest with little or no breast is'nt much help. Breasts are no longer a feature on men or women on the runway. Long, lithe legs abounded: could be girl could be boy, could be alien.
The big news in pants, unless skin tight (there was a tell tale bulge in some cases helped to clear the fconfusion), was the new dropped crotch with the visual trick of suggesting big low hangers. Cojones. Nuts.What have you!?! This particular design choice brought back a very amusing moment while speeding down the freeway behing a souped up, monster tired pick up truck. On its back high gloss chromed fender I couldn't help notice something dangling and swinging from side to side. As I sped up to get a closer look, I saw that it was a scrotum sack ( false, I think) with big fat balls hanging . I almost drove off the road, never was I laughing so hard driving that I was almost blinded by tears. This was the first time that fashion was taking it's influence from the freeway and not just the street. The truck was Puce, the hair blowing from the window were long, blonde extensions , and we were enroute to the Fab Hamptons, so it could very well have been Mr. Galliano in his Chariot of dreams.
This was just a tiny bit fetishistic and not interesting in the sense of being a detail of interest. Silly is the word that came to mind. There were loads of these pants suggesting pants with loads. I don't like fashion that makes jokes of either sex. It is an expensive insult.
With race and diversity on the tips of so many wagging tongues, I spotted all of ONE, UNO, EINS,UN, model of color, that color being of the dark brown shade. Need I beat that dead horse once more? DISAPPOINTING. John Galliano is so open to ideas and possibilities....what's up with that?
I did see very beautiful and wonderful possibilities despite the addled confusion and craziness of styling. Cool multi colored and multi textured jackets over sheer Goa -inspired tunics and slim tight colorful pants. Crazy platform clogs that looked like fun to wear and totter around in. But there was one piece that made me gasp and want to have more than any one thing I've seen all week from Commes de Garcon, Bottega,Hermes,the whole pack. It was an unzipped, unassuming black crocodile motorcycle jacket. Artless, loaded with sex appeal:androgynous,
impossibly modern,luxurious and perfectly of this moment . That one piece summed up the whole message. Fashion moves forward in how we choose to incorporate it into our lives.
Any piece from a collection can alter the fac of how we look feel and appear to others. That jacket will change the way anyone, man or woman, appears to the world. That's fashion. Thats change. That's the jacket I want.
That's the jacket I'll HAVE.
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